The Un-cool Ski Trails of Pinkham Notch – by Lynn Fisher
Lynn Fisher edits the Trip Reports for the AMC-NH Ski Committee. She volunteers as a Naturalist for the AMC and maintains section 11B of Vermont’s Catamount backcountry ski trail.
For proud geeks such as myself, “un-cool” can be a badge of honor. At least, it gets us away from big crowds.
What one friend calls “my least favorite kind of skiing” is viewed differently by my ski buddies, one of whom notes the appeal of “starting out with the conga line of people with AT gear, and then veering off to the quiet XC ski trails.”
Exhibit A: Pinkham Notch Visitor Center and the conga line is in the background. You’d never find this trailhead – the Pinkham Notch Ski Trail – unless you know to look for it. Here’s where: Cross (or ski along the edge of) the frozen pond opposite Route 16 from Pinkham Notch Visitor Center. The trailhead is tucked in there, along the pond edge, clearly marked.
If you’re interested in a quiet yet entertaining ski tour for a few hours, a wee bit of adventure, and using “stoke” and “spicy” only ironically, follow along. I’ll describe some points of interest along with a couple of suggested tours.
Note: This is not an attempt to convey fool-proof navigation instructions. Suggestions for references are at the end of the article.
Tour #1: Everything but the Kitchen Sink
Pinkham Notch Ski Trail, Square Ledge Ski Trail, Wild Kitten alpine trail, Route 16, Crew Cut hiking trail, Connie’s Way Ski Trail.
4.86 miles, 743’ elevation, 3+ hours. (Subtract about 2 miles if skipping the Square Ledge Lollipop)
Start at the Pinkham Notch Ski Trail (PNST) trailhead, across route 16 from Pinkham Notch Visitor Center and on the opposite side of the pond. Ski in to the first junction, then turn right to follow the Square Ledge Ski Trail.
Square Ledge Ski Trail
The Square Ledge Ski Trail makes a lollipop – it skis well in either direction. It rolls gently up and along the side of Wildcat Mountain. At the furthest point of the lollipop there is a herd path that climbs steeply (but taking off skis isn’t necessary) up to large flat ledge, which can be an excellent sunny snack spot.
After returning to the junction with the Pinkham Notch Ski Trail, turn right, cross the bridge, and continue along the PNST. There’s a steep gully or two. Note: You are skiing (mostly uphill) to the Wildcat Ski Area in order to descend the Wild Kitten Trail. You may encounter alpine skiers coming from Wildcat in the opposite direction, and (understandably) moving quite quickly in order to minimize the side stepping they’ll inevitably have to do to get back to Pinkham Notch. Most of the time, though, you’ll encounter no other skiers here.
You’ll have to tolerate a crowd for this next bit: Ski down Wild Kitten to the base of the Wildcat Ski Area. It’s a novice trail and should be well-groomed, so even with light backcountry gear you’ll blend right in. At the base, remove skis and walk to route 16, turning left (south) and walking oh-so-carefully along the shoulder, about 250 yards, to the Crew Cut Hiking Trail, which is well marked and climbs steeply up from the road.
If you’re a good side-stepper and a just a bit limber you can put your skis back on near the road and “ski” your way up the Crew Cut trail, which does moderate in pitch once it climbs above the highway.
Doing our best to look un-cool. Safety first.
When Crew Cut intersects Connie’s Way Ski Trail, turn left and enjoy the peaceful ski back to Pinkham Notch Visitor Center.
Tour #2: Watch out for the Snow Coach
Loop with Old Jackson Road, MW Auto Road, Connie’s Way
A bit more than 6 miles and 1100’ elevation gain. 3+ hours.
The Old Jackson Road (OJR) – which is the route of the Appalachian Trail – is used for snowshoeing (and post-holing) as well as for skiing.
Almost buried sign at the start of the ski spur that leaves the Old Jackson Road.
We’ve nonetheless had good luck skiing up the OJR with fish-scaled backcountry skis, like my Voiles in the photo. (An enjoyable descent, however, requires lots of good soft snow. )
This tour follows almost the entire OJR to the Auto Road, but diverges quite near its end, where the OJR makes a sharp left turn steeply up hill, while a blue-blazed “ski spur” continues straight ahead. You’ll take the spur, even though it immediately requires descending down into a drainage and climbing back out. It then intersects the Auto Road in a very short distance.
If you don’t take the spur and instead follow the very steep OJR to where it interesects the Auto Road, you’ll find youself having more of a ski mountaineering experience than you might find enjoyable.
The junction with Auto Road is a good spot to remove skins if you’ve used them, to have a snack, and to begin to keep your ears open for approaching snow cats. You’re likely to see one or more as you ski down. The passengers and drivers do seem to enjoy waving as they go by.
Ski down the auto road for 1.4 miles, descending 800 vertical feet. It is packed – often topped with powdery snow – so you’ll pick up some speed.
Watch for the right turn for Connie’s Way. You’ll turn off the Auto Road at a large break in the forest on the right side of the road. There is a sign hanging high on a tree. The terrain drops off steeply (yes you’ll ski down it) and crosses an open area to where Connie’s Way Ski Trail enters the woods.
If you miss this turn, you’ll be at the base of the auto road in less than a mile, which is not the worst of mistakes.
Following my brother’s wedeln in fresh snow on the Mount Washington Auto Road.
Finally, ski all 2.5 lovely miles of Connie’s Way – which can take longer and provide more entertainment than its statistics might indicate – returning to Pinkham Notch.
Further reading and references:
- White Mountain Winter Recreation Map & Guide, Appalachian Mountain Club
- Best Backcountry Skiing in the Northeast, David Goodman, Pequot Books/Appalachian Mountain Club
Photo by Al Grimstad taken during fall trailwork.
Acknowledgement: I believe that both of these tours were first suggested to me by Al Grimstad. I’ll further add that Al is responsible for the lion’s share of their maintenance, along with Tim Lineham, Will Oliver, and Jeff Hayes.