Introduction to Glacier Travel Workshop

Updated:
June 10, 2020

Join us in April at the Gunstock Recreation Area for our Introduction to Glacier Travel Workshop

Overall Curriculum

7:30 – 8:00 am
Participant check-in, sign waiver form, and gear loan

8:00 am
Workshop Introduction & AMC Workshop Announcement
Thank Sponsors & Introduce Instructors
Goals for the day and overall format with a recap at 3:30

Combined group session

Glaciated environment
Clothing protocols
Knots (figure 8, butterfly, prussic) demonstrate & practice
Discuss roped travel and clipping in
Instructors demonstrate dividing the rope

10:30 am
Break into Teams with each pair of Instructors
Instructors Distribute team gear (ropes, pickets, etc)
Group introductions and Instructors brief review of activities

All groups will review and practice Self Arrest skills

3:30 pm
Rally up and Recap the day
Recover all gear loaned to participants
Check-in AMC Mountaineering team gear (ropes, pickets, etc)
Participants complete course review/feedback form

 

Participants – bring the following gear if you have it

  • helmet
  • harness
  • 3 large locking carabiners (screwlock)
  • mountaineering ice axe
  • prussic ropes

A few helmets, harnesses, crampons, and ice axes are available on a first-come basis. Let us know if you will need any of these items.

Participants should come prepared to spend the entire day in the field. You should plan to have weather appropriate clothing, food/snacks & two or three liters of water in your pack. You will be on the snow all day, so bring sunglasses & sunscreen. This will help ensure you are comfortable, so you can focus on learning & having a fun experience.

Required equipment/clothing (minimum):

  • Mountaineering Boots (no Sorels or “soft shell” boots)
  • Crampons pre-fitted to your boots
  • Insulating layers (top and bottom)
  • Water-repellant shell (top and bottom)
  • Gloves/Mittens/Liners
  • Hat (with neck protection)
  • Sunscreen
  • Sunglasses or Glacier glasses
  • Helmet
  • Harness with adjustable leg loops
  • 3 large locking carabiners (preferably screwlock)
  • Mountaineering axe
  • Inexpensive (disposable?) shell top/pants for self-arrest practice

Self-arrest practice is very hard on shell gear. You should plan on bringing inexpensive shell gear for self-arrest training.

Your climbing helmet and harness should fit over the layers you plan to wear. Please adjust them in advance to ensure trouble-free use in the field. Your crampons should be properly fitted to the boots you will be wearing. You should bring 3 large locking carabiners. If you have an ice axe, bring it. Prussic ropes will be provided. If you have your own, please bring them.

Check the weather for Gilford New Hampshire in advance to be prepared with appropriate gear and clothing for the forecasted weather.

Reminder: a few helmets, harnesses, crampons, and ice axes are available on a first-come basis. Let us know if you will need any of these items.

The goal of the Introduction to Glacier Travel Workshop is to familiarize participants with the glaciated mountaineering environment, and train participants to be functioning members of a roped team for glacier travel. Emphasis will be placed on individual and team fundamentals, including crampon and ice axe techniques, stressing self and team belay and arrest.

Rescue skills and techniques are not part of this training, although some aspects may be discussed during the course of the workshop. These skills are covered in the Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue weekend workshop.

Participants are expected to be familiar with a mountaineering harness, as well as hiking with crampons properly fitted to their boots. Winter hiking skills provide an excellent foundation to build upon. Ice axe experience is not a prerequisite.

Workshop Topics

  • Glaciers and Glacier Travel & Group Discussion
    • Compression/Expansion and crevasse zones
  • Crampon Technique & Proper Footwork – Preventing slips and falls
  • Ice Axe & Proper Handwork and Balance for Self Belay
    • Leash Options
    • Uphill position (in hand)
    • Carrying on the pack (between back and pack)
  • Basic Knots: Prussic, Figure 8, Butterfly – everyone always clips-in with a butterfly
  • Roped Travel – Clip-in not Tie-in
    • Prussic tie in – which rope and why (middle team members)
    • Rhythm
    • Direction changes
    • Team Communication
    • Belay Techniques – prussic and waist belay
  • Rope Management
    • Team spacing (divide rope exercises)
    • Coils on end (carry-in or overpack as long as easily accessible)
    • Slack
    • Take-up
    • Rope as a “telegraph line” (team communication)
  • Team Arrest – All for One & One for All!
  • Ascending & Descending Steep Slopes
    • Simulate & Practice prussic self-rescue (roped team on a slope)